Each Cook Must Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.
When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.
An Shocking Accolade
The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.
“I am utterly astonished,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The Character of Modesty
This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
A Signature Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.
It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Rising Above the Giants
Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The Ethos of Warmth
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Story of Dedication
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
An Accomplishment for the People
This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.