Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A serendipitous meeting while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the course of a teenage Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's electric 1990s cultural landscape, moving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D.

"It was the zenith of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."

Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is not the only one. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. However since that time, Enninful believes a significant change. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "This isn't just this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

Shifting Attitudes

This regression is difficult to overlook: the resurgence of far-right politics, the backlash against progressive values, and the reinforcement of traditional beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the Blair era, currently a more divisive political personality appears as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an symbol of cultural optimism, has become contentious again.

In Enninful's view, the antidote has long been to champion culture in all its variety. This was the core philosophy behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of prominent faces from politics.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he asserts, explaining those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain were not a open country, if it refused my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this period will pass."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He takes comfort in the next generation: "They’re much more aware than we were. They discuss implicit prejudice – I was not even aware what that was."

His formative years would forge a groundbreaking career characterised by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful set a precedent as the first man, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to take the helm at British Vogue. His leadership featured diverse covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from all walks of life. Critically, sales increased.

"To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has established his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since departing his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was brought up in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the leader. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I was a minority. I was very shy. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were harassed under the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a dual identity both an insider and outsider."

Defying the caricature of industry figures as loud and temperamental, Enninful is measured in tone and projects peace. His life has included its share of hardship, including openly discussed battles with depression and addiction.

He has also endured serious health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a dark place for two years, not working, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to do everything that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This determination to be typecast has inspired him away from the industry that built his career. He is now curating a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a roster of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and give platform to those who did not receive a spotlight at the time.

"Institutions sometimes neglected to promote the most relevant talents because they weren't of the expected background," he observes.

This venture itself uses a unique strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "Our approach is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is a piece within a broader vision."

A Testament to Resilience

Today, Enninful operates as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His path, he states, is a testament to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward make of the his current self? He smiles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was a rebel. I never imagined institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have underestimated me my whole career. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."