Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
